Road Trips – Think on Good Things

May 9, 2024May 10, 2024

Wayland Holyfield

When I was a child in Mrs. Swofford’s 4th grade classroom, we learned about Arkansas. I absolutely loved studying and learning about my state. We explored the history of Arkansas, the development of the state, and also worked to memorize the symbols that identify it.

For example:

state flower – apple blossom

state bird – mockingbird

state gem – diamond

state grain – rice

state musical instrument – fiddle

state rock – bauxite

The state song at the time, I believe, was a song called Arkansas – written in 1916 by Eva Ware Barnett. In 1987, however, this song was elevated to “state anthem” and a new official state song was adopted.

“Arkansas, You Run Deep in Me” was written by Wayland Holyfield. I loved it the very first time I heard it – and in fact, it still touches my heart every single time it plays. If I put together a bulleted list of things about Arkansas to be celebrated, they would pretty much all be included in this song and video.

I can remember when AETN, the Arkansas PBS station, would sign off every evening at midnight with a video rendition of this song – and if I were awake I would usually turn over the channel to watch it.

The song’s composer, Wayland Holyfield, was born in Conway County Arkansas, in 1942. In 1972, he left Arkansas and moved to Nashville – with a dream of becoming a songwriter. Success didn’t take too long for Mr. Holyfield – his first song was recorded in 1973. Throughout his career, his songs were recorded by artists John Anderson, Brooks & Dunn, Mickey Gilley, Barbara Mandrell, Charly McClain, Anne Murray, The Nitty Gritty Dirt Band, The Oak Ridge Boys, Reba McEntire, Charley Pride, Statler Brothers, George Strait, Mel Tillis, Ernest Tubb, Conway Twitty, Tammy Wynette, and many, many, many more.

A member of the Nashville Songwriters Hall of Fame, he impressively wrote (and co-wrote) many songs – with over 40 hits that reached the top ten – 14 of which went to #1. Some of his best-known songs are the beautiful “Could I Have This Dance” (Anne Murray), “Some Broken Hearts Never Mend” (Don Williams), “Til The Rivers All Run Dry” (Don Williams), “You’re the Best Break This Old Heart Ever Had” (Ed Bruce), “Only Here For a Little While” (Billy Dean), and “Nobody Likes Sad Songs” (Ronnie Milsap).

Mr. Holyfield passed away this week in Nashville, Tennessee at the age of 82

My favorite song that he wrote will always be his love song to my home state of Arkansas.

Thank you, Mr. Holyfield.

Update/Addition
After publishing this blog, I found out that in 2021 Mr. Holyfield generously donated the rights to “Arkansas, You Run Deep in Me” to the Arkansas Community Foundation, a nonprofit organization based in Little Rock that awards grants for charitable programs around the state. Having known a few songwriters in my day, I know how valuable song rights can be – both personally and financially. What a generous gift! On the Arkansas Community Foundation website, Mr. Holyfield is quoted saying “I want my song to continue to inspire Arkansans for years to come. Gifting the rights to Arkansas Community Foundation ensures the songs legacy, and will hopefully inspire Arkansans to appreciate our state, its generosity and the support of essential nonprofits,” said Holyfield. “I’m so pleased the Community Foundation has found a way to use my words and music in their efforts.”

The Community Foundation produced a video using the song, and it is spectacular. Click below to see (first) the original video to the song. Then, please take the time to watch the second (updated) version produced by the Community Foundation. They are worth your time.

Arkansas You Run Deep In Me

Arkansas You Run Deep in Me
by Wayland Holyfield

October morning in the Ozark Mountains,
Hills ablazing like that sun in the sky.
I fell in love there and the fire’s still burning
A flame that will never die.

Chorus

Oh, I may wander, but when I do
I will never be far from you.
You’re in my blood and I know you’ll always be.
Arkansas, you run deep in me.
Moonlight dancing on a delta levee,
To a band of frogs and whippoorwill
I lost my heart there one July evening
And it’s still there, I can tell.

Repeat Chorus

Magnolia blooming, Mama smiling,
Mallards sailing on a December wind.
God bless the memories I keep recalling
Like an old familiar friend.

Repeat Chorus

And there’s a river rambling through the fields and valleys,
Smooth and steady as she makes her way south,
A lot like the people whose name she carries.
She goes strong and she goes proud.

Repeat Chorus

Adopted by the 1987 General Assembly as an Official State Song.

You can download a free MP3 file of the song from the state website by clicking here.

October 22, 2022October 22, 2022

Maplewood

As so many people traverse the countrysides this month searching excitedly for the brilliant colors of autumn, it joyfully reminds each of us that hope, joy, and wonder still abound….that despite all of the stresses and demands of daily life – we continue to reach out, to look for the beauty and blessings surrounding us every day, to celebrate the joys and wonder of our world. These blessings are ours to be enjoyed freely. We must only seek them out and celebrate them!

If you live in Arkansas or southwest Missouri, making the drive to Maplewood Cemetery in Harrison, Arkansas is time well spent each autumn. A well-known Arkansas treasure, the quiet, always beautiful cemetery is crowded and busy during the fall as people from miles around visit to see the beautiful foliage. The colors are beautiful right now, so if you haven’t visited before, this is a good time to head to Harrison. The images here were taken at Maplewood this week. If you can’t visit, please “walk” through the beauty here by viewing these photos. I so very much hope you enjoy them!

If you would like to learn more about Maplewood Cemetery, click here to read an interesting online article by Deb Peterson about the history of this incredibly beautiful place! I was delighted to find out that the beauty of Maplewood was due to the efforts of dedicated ladies in the 1920’s with foresight and vision we all benefit from today. What a lovely gift to all of us! What a lovely legacy!

March 6, 2022March 6, 2022

My Friends in Winterset

Winterset, Iowa is quite a special little place. I am blessed to have several friends there – so I was so saddened when the news last night reported that a devastating tornado hit the little town yesterday afternoon. Actually I guess “friends” is a vague term – none of these friends I mentioned would actually even know my name or remember me at all….

Perhaps I’d better back up and start again….

Winterset is a small town of just over 5,000 people, located south of Iowa’s capital city of Des Moines in rural Madison County. There are a lot of great things to see and do there, and I’ve visited Winterset on several occasions…..but I will tell more about that another time.

Today, I am thinking about my friends…

I met my friend Bob on my very first trip to Winterset several years ago. I stopped by the Chamber of Commerce to see if there were any brochures, maps, or information they might share about touring the area sites. The young lady behind the desk enthusiastically told me that the best way to be introduced to Winterset was through one of their city tours if we had the time (typically about 2 – 3 hours). I immediately asked if we could schedule a tour for that afternoon. She smiled, thought for a minute, and said she would check with Bob, one of their tour guides, to see if he was available. Fortunately he was, and that afternoon I had a personal tour of the area with Bob – learning so much about Winterset – it’s history, points of interest, the people, businesses, and the culture. Early in the tour, we drove past a nice brick home on the right that sat back off the highway a bit. Bob not only pointed out that it was the home where he and his wife lived, but also told us about the home in detail – very proud of the life they had created there together. He was charming, enthusiastic, informative, and fun. When I heard the tornado yesterday had gone south and east of town, I breathed a sigh of relief. Bob’s home is located north and west of the city center.

Another friend in Winterset is a sweet lady who works at the John Wayne Birthplace Museum. I have visited the museum on two or three occasions through the years, and she is always behind the counter selling tickets and souvenirs. She is originally from the Springfield, Missouri area where I lived for over ten years – and we always visit about places and people we have in common when I’m there. I don’t remember her name, but I do remember her smile and her kindness.

On the city square, there was a very nice little boutique that I visited a couple of years ago. The owner was very kind and we chatted comfortably while I shopped – talking about Winterset, Branson, MO, her future plans to open an AirBnB upstairs above her shop…..it was such a pleasant afternoon. I took her business card (which I unfortunately have since misplaced) and told her I would call to see if her AirBnB was available on my next trip to Winterset.

My last friend is definitely the most unique and perhaps the most special – because we have never met at all…. Let me explain. My Mother and I were traveling home from a trip to Minnesota on I-35 one day and veered off to have lunch at the Northside Cafe on the Winterset city square. After lunch, Mother sat down on a bench outside for a few minutes….and unknowingly left her cell phone lying there when she walked away. We were an hour or more down the road before we discovered it was gone – and had no idea where it could be. Mentally retracing our steps as we drove along, we thought perhaps it could have been left at our table in the Northside cafe or on that city sidewalk bench. Calling the Northside first, no phone was located. Remembering the Chamber of Commerce office was down the block a ways from where Mother had sat, I searched for the number and gave them a call. The lady who answered was very kind – listening while I explained our predicament, then telling me to hold on while she went down the street to search. After several minutes, she was back with Mother’s phone in her hand. She took down our address and promised to put the phone in the mail to us the next day. I told her that I would send her a check for her trouble, but she refused saying she was glad to be of help. She gave me her personal cell phone number in case I needed to contact her. The next day, I received a text from her letting me know the phone had been shipped.

Each of these friends made an impression on me. Their kindness, their enthusiasm, their personalities are memorable to me…I said a prayer for each of them and their families yesterday evening and again this morning…..because they touched my life. They are my friends. I have no idea of their political affiliations, their religious beliefs, or their backgrounds. I just know that they are my friends, their community is hurting, and therefore I hurt with them.

One of my colleagues posted a question on Facebook a few days ago – “When are we going to realize that we all belong to the same human race?” It’s a powerful and profound question, Beth – and I hope we figure that out soon.

Matthew 22:37-39 Jesus replied: “ ‘Love the Lord your God with all your heart and with all your soul and with all your mind.’ 38 This is the first and greatest commandment. 39 And the second is like it: ‘Love your neighbor as yourself.’

John 13:35 By this everyone will know that you are my disciples, if you love one another.”

I Corinthians 16:14 Do everything in love.

I John 14:19 We love because He first loved us.

September 6, 2021September 6, 2021

The Cotter Bridge

Have you ever been to Cotter, Arkansas?

If you don’t live somewhere near Northwest Arkansas or Southwest Missouri, the answer might be no…and that’s too bad….because it is definitely a little place worth exploring!

When I was a little girl, my Daddy worked for a company called Ozark Sash and Door owned and operated in Springdale and Berryville, Arkansas by the Hanby family. Before the days of the big box stores, there was a hardware store of some type in most every little community. Daddy traveled a regular route weekly through Missouri and Arkansas, selling building materials to those little stores. Sometimes, Mother and I would ride with him…

On Tuesdays, his route took him from Harrison to Mountain Home, with many stops in between. Traveling the old 62 highway back in those days took us across the Cotter Bridge…

The old bridge is unique in many ways. Sitting high above the White River, it is beautiful with its patented rainbow arches and lighted lamps. As a little girl however, crossing the bridge was fun for another reason. When on the bridge headed toward Cotter, a large, old railroad trestle sits to your left, angling diagonally toward your path. It intersects the Cotter Bridge just at the end, crossing underneath at the last minute. Sometimes, a train would be chugging across that trestle bridge just as we, in Daddy’s truck, were driving across the Cotter bridge. It was always exciting – looking just a tiny bit like we were surely about to collide with the train (in my little girl’s mind). It was a little bit scary – and lots of fun!

The Cotter Bridge has an interesting history. According to the Encyclopedia of Arkansas, it was completed in 1930. Originally operated as a toll bridge to recoup construction costs, it allowed east-west travelers a reliable White River crossing. Ferries used previously were often unavailable due to frequent flooding in the area, and the closest detour crossing was 100 miles to the north in Branson, Missouri. Designed by the Marsh Engineering Company in Des Moines, Iowa, the graceful structure is still beautiful today.

When highway 62 was rerouted near the turn of this century, a new bridge was built just a short distance to the northeast. Thankfully, the old bridge was preserved and remains open to vehicle traffic for anyone who likes to veer off the beaten path.

All these years later, a visit to the Cotter bridge is still something I enjoy. I make the drive over several times a year…it’s a great little day trip. Beneath the bridge, there is a pleasant little city park on the banks of the White River. Big Springs Park is a relaxing gathering place for families, fishermen, and old folks…

The park pays homage to Cotter’s railroad history with a caboose, a statue, and some interesting informational markers to read as you wander about. There’s also a boat ramp, fishing spots, picnic tables, benches, a covered pavilion, a sand volleyball court, a quaint little gazebo that could serve as a bandstand, a walking path, and best of all a true old-fashioned swimming hole complete with a rope swing.

It’s fun to visit the park on a summer afternoon or evening, to sit and watch the kids play in the swimming hole, to picnic, or just set up your lawn chairs in a shady spot, enjoy the cool breezes blowing in from the river, and visit with folks from all over. Cotter, after all, is known as the “Trout Fishing Capital of the World” and many people travel miles to enjoy this quaint little town. I always drive to nearby Gassville first, to pick up a pizza at Nima’s. (This little pizza place has won numerous awards including “Best in the U.S.” at national competitions and even “Best in the World” at international events. Definitely a “don’t miss” place!)

The best part of the park, however, are the magnificent views of the historic old bridge. I hope you enjoy the images I captured last month on one of my day trips over there. It truly is a beautiful, peaceful, and rejuvenating spot.

Click here for a shortcut to the gallery. Thank you for stopping by!

September 4, 2021

Vision brings New Purpose

In February of 2019, I wrote a blog post about the incredible restoration and repurpose occurring at the old mill located on the banks of the Finley River in Ozark, Missouri. (Click here to reread it, if you’re interested.) It has been exciting to see the huge building, nearly 100 years old, meticulously restored and revamped. It had sat quietly for nearly 30 years since closing its doors (then seemingly permanently) – but it has now come gloriously back to life once again…

For years, whenever I have had a little extra time while driving north toward Springfield, Missouri, I have indulged myself with a few minutes to exit off highway 65 and head east down Jackson Street so that I could drive through Finley River Park. Any friends or family members who have ridden with me very often know my routine well – it’s a habit I’ve had for many years, and I’ve taken them along with me so many times. It’s such a beautiful spot – almost always alive with people walking the loop, fishing, kayaking or canoeing, reading, or just sitting and lazily enjoying the tranquil, beautiful little oasis in the middle of Ozark.

The old Finley River bridge provides a beautiful backdrop and just beyond it sits the historic Ozark Mill. For years, the old mill sat quiet and abandoned after years of service to the town of Ozark and its surrounding area. The original mill was built on this spot almost 200 years ago – even before Ozark was officially a town. Fires through the decades destroyed most of those original structures. Nevertheless, the Ozark Mill was always repaired and rebuilt, operating continuously on this same spot from the 1830’s until the early 1990’s. What a significant and enduring impact this must have been to the community!

At the time it closed its doors, it was reported to be the last working water-powered mill operating in Missouri. Shutting down the old mill was definitely the end of an era…and I feel confident many were sad to see it go. So many times, I have said that it would be a shame for the old building to be lost forever – but sensibly it seemed inevitable. The Finley River frequently flooded the old building….and besides – what could it economically be repurposed to provide?

Of course, as with all things, it takes people with vision – people willing to look beyond the norms and think outside the box…and often (as in this case), we all benefit from the efforts of these wonderful innovative thinkers…

…The restored Ozark Mill, a part of Bass Pro owner Johnny Morris’ wonderful new Finley Farms development, officially opened last night to the public as a wonderful restaurant and shopping experience. Once worn and silent, the old building was full of life yesterday evening and there was a feeling of celebration in the air. The weather was perfect for outdoor seating, with a pleasant breeze blowing over the Finley. Soft music, combined with the gentle noises of rushing water from the waterfalls, the beautiful setting, and all of the lovely, well-planned details made for an ambiance of rustic elegance. Our server Audry, and in fact the entire staff, was professional, friendly, eager to assist, and seemed excited to open the new restaurant in the grand old building. The menu selection was creative, the table setting was unique (our table napkins were patterned after old fashioned dish towels – how fun!), and the food was delicious. I ordered the “Ricotta Ravioli”, which was wonderful, and was fortunate to also taste the “Hog & Feed Flatbread” as well as the “Chicken and Dumplins”. All were very unique, beautifully plated, and absolutely delicious. The menu offers three desserts – but at my table we were intrigued by the “Signature Green Tomato Cake”. “Trust us it’s amazing” was bravely captioned on the menu…..and they were right! Bright green in color, it was moist and delicious – tasting somewhat like an old-fashioned spice cake.

Ricotta Ravioli from The Ozark Mill restaurant

Signature Green Tomato Cake from The Ozark Mill restaurant

Ducks, cranes, and other waterfowl unassumingly entertained us while we ate and comfortably enjoyed our time by the water. The entire evening was wonderful from start to finish. In fact, I’m already looking forward to going back! I heard others talking about how fabulous the “Cast Iron Cornbread” appetizer was….and the “Risotto Fritters” sound intriguing! 🙂

Truth be told, I’m not always a huge fan of change. (Note – this comes as absolutely no surprise to anyone who knows me! 🙂 In fact, I can almost hear them chuckling as they read this. ) So often change feels frightening, unsettling….even painful. However, sometimes….change can bring really great things. It may sound silly, but dinner at the old mill last night reminded me that in some cases endings bring new beginnings, that closing one door may open the doors to new experiences – at times even surpassing those of the past.

I’m going to try to remember that.

June 29, 2019July 1, 2019

The Old Mill

This past week, I had an appointment in Little Rock, Arkansas. As soon it was over, I headed to The Old Mill in North Little Rock to walk around, relax, and take a few pictures before starting the drive home. I first visited the Mill in the early 1980’s, when my step-grandpa drove our family over to see the beautiful spot. I was instantly enchanted! I had been by the turn to the Old Mill countless times, but I had never noticed the sign directing me to this peaceful hidden valley tucked quietly away just a mile and a half from McCain Mall’s busy shopping area. In fact, this lovely, tranquil spot is located only five miles from the bustling Arkansas State Capitol complex. How unique is that?

I love finding beautiful or historic or interesting spots to explore. Wherever you are, there are so many things to see and do – and many of them cost nothing but your time! To me, summertime – the time of year when the days are longer and sometimes a little more relaxed – is a perfect time for road trips!

When I was a child, Sunday afternoons typically meant Sunday drives. After church and then lunch (we called it dinner in the American South), we would settle into the car and spend the afternoon driving around to “see the countryside”. I love the memory of those pleasant drives – learning new roads, seeing new things, and revisiting favorite spots. It is a practice I continue, in some ways, to this day. Who knows what hidden gems can be discovered in just a 50-mile radius of our homes or travel destinations! Every place has a story. Whenever I travel anywhere – even for business or appointments, I try to find something to do to make the trip FUN. It’s something I learned from my Mother years ago. When I was a kid, I didn’t like being cooped up in the car on a long drive – so Mother and Daddy would play the billboard alphabet game with me…or Auto Bingo…or find a good spot where we could stop and go wading together – whatever they could do to make the day enjoyable. Now, whenever I travel – I am thinking about somewhere I can stop or something I can see that will bring joy to my day.

If you’ve been to the North Little Rock area and never seen The Old Mill, I encourage you to check it out on your next trip. It’s worth your time to stop by. Built in 1933, the Old Mill building was never intended to be a working grist mill. It was instead built as a tribute to remember the days of old – when grist mills were a gathering point for communities, providing services needed for settlers’ survival. Inside the rock building is an authentic iron grist mill moved to North Little Rock from the long-gone Cagle’s Mill in Pope County, Arkansas. (Cagle’s Mill operated in the 1800’s between Russellville, Arkansas and Dardenelle, Arkansas – located about where the Dardanelle Lock and Dam is now. If you’re interested – click here to see a picture of the Old Mill from the Pope County Library. A long-time Russellville restaurant is named in its honor.)

The park surrounding the mill, Pugh’s Memorial Park, is beautifully landscaped and maintained. Walking trails go down by the lake and climb the slope behind the Mill. Beautiful bridges, benches, and footpaths, sculpted from a sturdy concrete-like substance to look as if they are made from wood, are found all over the park. They are remarkably detailed and very well preserved – despite the fact that they are over 80 years old. According to the information sign displayed near the park entrance, developer Justin Matthews commissioned Dionicio Rodriguez, to create the remarkable works of art. His sculptures have survived to this day, and they are spectacular to see. No one knows the formula Senor Rodriguez developed to create the material for his works, though many have tried to figure it out. He preferred to keep it secret and hid the process from everyone – making it unfortunately now lost forever.

The Old Mill brought long-lasting notoriety to the state of Arkansas only a few years after it was completed. Director David O. Selznick featured the location in the opening credits of the 1939 Academy award-winning movie Gone With the Wind. No one knows why the location was chosen, but the Old Mill building is believed to be the only surviving structure of the movie. The Arkansas location was the site of the national unveiling of a postage stamp commemorating the fiftieth anniversary of Gone With the Wind.

It was a humid, blisteringly hot afternoon when I drove over to Lakeshore Drive this week – but when I walked into the park I forgot all about the heat. It is such a beautiful, peaceful spot. I was instantly, once again, enchanted. If you’re passing through the Little Rock metropolitan area and have an extra half-hour or so, please consider driving to The OId Mill at 3800 Lakeshore Drive in North Little Rock. I really think you’ll be glad you did! Wear your walking shoes, take your camera, or a book to read, or an iced tea to sip – and spend a few minutes enjoying the lovely serenity of the park.

I hope you enjoy the pictures! I definitely had fun taking them to share with you!